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Welcome to Cowtown
It was cattle that made Fort Worth, and Forth Worth isn't about to forget it.

By Richard F. Selcer

Fort Worth had a knack for separating cattlemen from their money. When the first long drives started coming through town on the way up the Chisholm Trail to Kansas, the cowboys stopped to whoop it up on their way north and again on the way back. The town soon became home to Hell's Half Acre, the biggest collection of bars, dance halls and bawdy houses south of Dodge City, giving Fort Worth the nickname of "The Paris of the Plains."

"I never would give the boys more than ten dollars apiece when we got to town," recalled a trail boss named Frank Graham. "They generally thanked me later on."



Although Hell's Half Acre has been replaced by the more sedate Tarrant County Convention Center, visitors to Fort Worth will find that the city hasn't forgotten its Western heritage. In downtown's Sundance Square there's a Texas-sized mural (three stories tall) depicting a cattle drive on the Chisholm Trail. One block over on Main Street you'll find the Sid Richardson Art Gallery, which has one of the world's largest collections of the Western art of Frederick Remington and Charles Russell. In the city's northern portion you'll find the Stockyards National Historic District, a working testament to the cattle business. It's no wonder Fort Worth became known as Cowtown.

It began as an actual fort, named for Major General William Jenkins Worth in 1849. Worth never saw the place, never even knew it was named in his honor, for he had died of cholera at San Antonio just a few weeks before. From those humble beginnings, "The City Where the West Begins" has grown up to become part of the Dallas/Fort Worth metro area and now has a population of almost half a million.

No trace of the original fort remains, but where it sat on the bluffs overlooking the Trinity River you can find the Tarrant County Courthouse, one of the finest historic courthouses in the nation. Built of native red granite and completed in 1895, it later suffered the indignities of urban architectural swings until it was restored in 1982 to its original grandeur, horse fountain and all. A large stone marker across the street commemorates the Eastern Cattle Trail, which 125 years ago came right up Commerce Street from the south on its way to the Trinity River crossing.


The cowboys spent their time in Fort Worth going a little crazy in Hell's Half Acre.

The courthouse is one of only two turn-of-the-century downtown buildings that have retained their architectural integrity. The other is the Knights of Pythias Hall at Fourth and Main. Now home to a jewelry store and a live theater, it was built in 1901 of red sandstone in the style of a middle-European medieval guild hall for the Knights of Pythias, a fraternal order founded in 1864. The seven-foot, armor-clad knight standing in a niche near the top of the building is a replica of one that, according to lore, exuberant cowboys used for target practice during a night on the town. Another legacy of turn-of-the-century Fort Worth is downtown's Sundance Square, named for a man who passed through town in 1900. Robert LeRoy Parker and Harry Alonzo Longabaugh, better known as Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid, were outlaws who bedeviled banks and railroads in the West.

After their last job at Winnemucca, Nevada, in 1900, Butch, Sundance, and their Wild Bunch headed for Fort Worth, where they lingered long enough to buy some fancy duds and have their picture taken at John Swartz's photo studio. According to one story, they sent a copy to the bank in Winnemucca, a bit of cheekiness that got the Pinkertons on their trail.

On the side of Sundance Square's Jett Building you can see Richard Haas' massive Chisholm Trail Mural, which celebrates the great cattle drives that helped the town grow. The trail, blazed by Jesse Chisholm, a half-Scottish, half-Cherokee trader, became the route Texas cattlemen used to drive their cattle north to the railroads in Kansas, and the cowboys using it spent their time in Fort Worth going a little crazy in Hell's Half Acre. "Pretty soon that part of town got to be Hell's Whole Acre," recalled a former cowpoke named Tom Blevens, "but the first time I seen it the section was smallish and all anybody talked about was The Two Minnies."

The Two Minnies was a fabulous establishment, perhaps in all senses of the word. "No man ever downed his first drink in The Two Minnies," Blevens claimed in an account in J. Frank Dobie's Cow People. "When I throwed back my head to dreen the poison down, I seen the ceiling was glass and there was anyways forty girls walking around up there with no clothes. They was playing tenpins."

  Related Articles
 •  Welcome to Cowtown Trip Planner
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Richard F. Selcer, a professor of history at Northlake College in Dallas, Texas, writes about Civil War and Western history. His article about Carlsbad Caverns appeared in the March/April 1995 issue.




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